“The warm, welcoming room of Ralph’s on the Park, 900 City Park Avenue, requires a bit of a schlep to the mostly unpopulated Mid-City neighborhood, but the cozy crowd of locals and crackerjack service makes it worth the trip. Broad picture windows give a nighttime glimpse of City Park’s storm-thinned canopy of live oak trees, but the post-storm menu makes sure that your taste buds are preoccupied with flavor. The classic shrimp remoulade appetizer balances spicy heat with soothing sweet, while an impossibly hefty pork chop pairs nicely with fig-sauced sautéed escarole.”